How to Place an Order with the Drapery Workroom in 6 Steps

1. Decide what style you want, or combination of two. Note: Roman shades generally cost more than drapery to make because of labor. Listed below is an explanation of curtain styles we suggest for drapery. Good idea to do your research of what look you're wanting prior to contacting workroom and have images to show.

• Pinch Pleat: A pinch pleat is a pinch (fold) of fabric sewn together about 4” below the top edge. It adds form and texture to how the fabric hangs. You can do a single, double, or triple pleat. This refers to the number of folds of fabric that are sewed together.
• Tailored curtains: These are named for their clean lines. Tailored curtains are the same as a pinch pleat except the folds of fabric are located at the top edge. It adds form and texture to how the fabric hangs. You can do a single, double, or triple pleat as well. This refers to the number of folds of fabric that are sewed together.
• Goblet: These literally look like a champagne goblet at the top. The area above the pinch is round and full. This particularly looks great with silk and is typically used for dresser locations.

2. Choose a fabric that has the drape (how the fabric folds and falls when hanging) that works well for the style you have chosen. For multiple windows, drapery with a large repeat usually requires a lot more yardage. Look at the repeats: horizontal, vertical and drops. Your workroom will need this information to determine the cut lengths and total yardage. Also, make sure to consider the fabric material and location, i.e., bathrooms are not ideal for unprotected silks.

Fabrics come in various widths, but 54” is standard. There are also wide width fabrics which are typically double the width of a standard fabric around 108” and are ideal for making beddings and draperies for large window spans. Some fabrics in wide widths can be turned horizontally and hung by its width. This will reduce the cuts and seams in your draperies, but you should make sure you're happy with the change in direction. Sometimes changing the direction of the fabric affects the fall/drape, and the repeat if there is one. Consult your workroom to see if this is applicable for your installation.

3. Measure your windows, width and height, etc. for estimating yardage. Listed are terms used in drapery workrooms.

• Drapery or curtain fullness: The fullness of the draperies really depends on a person’s likes or dislikes and naturally the wallet too. The fullness is usually referred to as double, two and a half times, or triple the width. But in specific situations you can get by using one and a half times. This means the drapery is 2x, 2.5x or 3x the widths of the window and sometimes at a very minimum 1.5x. The standard for a sheer or lightweight fabric is 2.5x to 3x and for medium to heavy weight fabrics 2x to 2.5x. Obviously, the 3x / 2.5x the width will give a mightier, nicer and fuller look.
• Cut length: is the length needed for the curtain plus hem and header allowances added and adjustments added for matching repeats if applicable.
• Cut width: is the width plus the side seam allowances, and adjustments added for matching repeats if applicable
• Finished length: The curtain length after the header and the hem are sewn.
• Stacking space: Is usually referred to as the distance needed for draperies in a drawn open state on a traverse rod. For example, drapery made from a heavy velvet will need more space, while a sheer would require less. This is important to know when you're determining the width of your drapes. If you don't want the drapes to obstruct any of the light let in by your windows then you would give the full amount of stacking space outside the window frame. This will add to the length in your hardware, and possibly the yardage required.
• Overlap: Is the area where the drapery panels over-lap at the center again on a traverse curtain rod. The standard is to have a 3.5-4"/8.75-10cm overlap.
• Center draw: Drapes which draw open or close from the center point of a window, without an overlap.
• One-way draw: One panel of drapery designed to draw one way only, most commonly used if the window is not centered on the wall, closer to the corner.
• Projection: is the distance the bracket holds the curtain rod out from the wall.
• Return: is the amount of extra drapery needed to cover the drapery hardware also called 'Going around the corner ease' i.e. If your mounting bracket has a 4"/10cm projection and you want to cover the distance from the front center of the rod to the wall. (Having drapes encasing a window can help hold out some of the cold in the winter) you will need to add another 4"/10cm to 4.5"/11.25cm to the width of your measurements.
• Leading edge: Is the spot where the curtain panels overlap in the center of a two-way traverse rod.

4. Take a picture of your window and send it to your drapery workroom along with the measurements of your windows, include the fabric width and repeats (if any). Note: most workrooms will come to measure to give the final quote. This usually costs a fee, but you can get an estimate with the use of your phone and email to start budgeting. Decide what lining you wish to have. You can ask to see their lining choices when you meet with the workroom. Easiest if you bring a sample of the fabric and ask for their suggestion.

• Lining: Lining creates a backdrop for the fabric to fall on so it appears less distorted by lights and shadows. A lining also protects your fabric from sun damage which will cause fabric colors to fade overtime. Linings are of course offered in a vast variety of shades but workrooms typically only have two white and cream. The standard lining is included with the labor for your draperies. If you are making these curtains yourself, we recommend any shade of white or cream.
• Blackout Lining: Is most often thin fabric with a coating on it to block out any shadows or lights that distort the fabric face. Workrooms usually have two choices, white and off white, and this is an added cost. Blackout lining will block any lighting or shadows on your curtain face. This is ideally used in bedrooms and media rooms. It will add a stronger protection against sun damage and drafts and is less expensive than interlining, but not as luxurious.
• Interlining: Interlining serves a different purpose than that of lining. It is placed between the lining and the fabric. The typical interlining will allow light through but not hard shadows. It provides a softness to your fabric when in direct sunlight. It is usually used with the basic lining above, not blackout lining. It is a flannel material and comes in various weights. Depending on the weight choices your workroom carries, the interlining adds volume to the curtains, making the way it falls appear more luxurious like a thicker fabric making curtains full, lush, and plump. Additionally, interlining cuts down with noise, helps insulate rooms from drafts, and adds protection from sun damage. Note: a fabric as think as velvet typically would not need an interlining, while a lighter weight fabric, such as silk most definitely would. Some workrooms also have a black interlining which cuts out the harsh light and shadows.
• Bump Interlining: which is even heavier than interlining and is often used in movie theaters in order to reduce echos and sound control. If you live in a noisy area, bump interlining would be your best option to reduce exterior noise, especially if you live in a city or near a busy street.

5. Purchase required yardage verified by workroom. Also, if purchasing large quantities of fabric, verify with workroom that additional yardage should be calculated for multiple bolts of fabric. Note: Heavy fabrics (i.e., velvets) are shipped in quantities of around 20 yards max length to a bolt to protect the fabric from crushing and because of the weight in shipping and handling. You can have your fabric shipped directly to the workroom or to your home. Bolts of fabric are about 72” long and are sometimes shipped in boxes.

6. Ask how long the process is. Depending on orders in front of you, it can take months. If you're trying to have these installed before the holidays, I would suggest starting your process in the summer or early fall so you have time to make decisions and are not rushed. Sometimes there are shipping delays, custom delays, factory delays etc., so don’t wait too long to start the process. Ask your drapery room what’s the typical turnaround and the drop date for holidays. See if you can book with the installer for the dates desired. Once the draperies are completed, you’ll need to confirm booking with an installer. Most workrooms have an installer in house or they have installers they use. You can also have the workroom order all the hardware for you. They usually just turn over the cost, not much of a markup if any, so better off allowing them to provide. Hardware is important though, so look at your options and know how it functions.

Additional terms:
Tie-backs: Are used to hold the curtain or drape panels in place. The height the tie backs are positioned at will determine the amount of glass or window that is exposed or framed. It's good to know that the overall look of a window can also be changed by the use of tie-backs. i.e., Holding the curtain panels back from a high position will expose more glass which will give the window a longer look and obviously also let in more light. And vice versa holding the drapery panels back from a lower position will show off less window and thus give the illusion of a wider window but will let in less light into the room.

Curtain or drapery drop also called drop length: This is the length of a curtain or drapery from the top hanging system to the bottom hem edge. This is most useful for the installer.

Double fold hem: The name says it all, on most curtains or drapes the hem is folded double. Reason 1: The double fold is the extra weight of the fabric which will let the window coverings hang better and evenly. Reason 2: The double fold can mainly become cosmetic on an opaque fabric. The double fold eliminates the cut line or folded-over raw edge to show through. On full length drapes it is customary to have a double hem anywhere from 6-8"/15-20cm hem and on short drapes 4-5"/10-12.5cm but every drapery workroom has their own standards.

Seam allowance: This is the extra amount of fabric used for joining two pieces of fabric, and matching the fabric.

Selvage: Finished edge runs along both sides of fabric lengthwise. Fabrics typically have various edge widths.

Facing: Extra layer of fabric used to strengthen a drape or curtain. (Commonly used on top of curtains)

Flat fell seam: A seam that gives extra strength to a seam.

French seam: A type of flat seam which encases the raw edges of fabric. Used on sheer or very loosely woven fabrics.